Creekside Cellars in Evergreen, Colorado
Excellent Food, Wine and Atmosphere in a Relaxed Mountain Setting
May 13, 2009
A visit to the Denver area is not complete without a long lunch at Creekside Cellars, listening to the rush of Bear Creek while lingering over an unforgettable antipasto platter, panini sandwich, or one of the many gourmet daily specials prepared by executive chef Irene Boyd. To complement the meal, the restaurant/winery currently offers fourteen different wines, from a pungent, crispy Rose to the deep and fruity Robusto.
Creekside Cellars - The Winery
"Good food and good wine shared with friends and family," is the motto at Creekside, which opened in 2000. Bill Donahue, who owns Creekside with his wife Anita, believes in the importance of wine-pairing. The menu includes wine suggestions for most selections, and the annual Barrell Tasting is a wine-paired extravanganza, with delectable accompaniments to the upcoming year's wines.
Creekside is currently the only establishment in Colorado that is both a winery and restaurant. Since opening, they have expanded from deli-counter service to full-service seating. The wine operation has matured as well, with the acquisition of their own vineyard in Palisade, CO and the apprenticeship of a winemaker with the same high standards as Donahue himself.
The Winemaker
Michelle Cleveland, Creekside's winemaker, studied under Donahue, and believes that they are making the best wine in the state. Cleveland is the former director of production and distribution for Daz Bogg coffee in Denver, and used to drive up to Evergreen on the weekends to hike and enjoy the mountain ambiance. When she heard that a winery was opening, she made it a point to be there and soon let Donahue know that she wanted to be a part of it.
"I just wouldn't go away," Cleveland says. Eventually, she earned her graduate certificate in enology and viticulture from UC Davis. Both Donahue and Cleveland consider themselves purists and perfectionists, and this is evident in the high quality of wines that they produce. They tend to use the old methods of clean, long aging, yet are always looking for ways to improve the winery and the wines.
"We love oak, integrating it with the wine and seeing how it changes the grape, but the fruit in Colorado is so awesome, we don't want to mask it too much," says Cleveland.
The Wines
From aperitif to dessert wine, from the fresh and airy Rose to the heady Robusto, Creekside's wines run the gamut. Favorites include the Rosso, a red table wine that is a cut above, the Cabernet Franc, which is, in Cleveland's opinion "what Colorado is going to be known for, like Oregon has its Pinot." She likens theirs to black cherry ice cream, and describes it as "earthy, dirty...yet very big. The fruit is distinct and bold." Among the whites, their Chardonnay, Riesling and Viognier are all popular.
They're also branching out into new varietals this year, with Petite Verdot, Petite Sirah, and Tempranillo blends. "It's all about the Colorado terroir," one customer asserts, as her glass of Rosso is served. Wines range in price from $14.00 to $60.00 a bottle.
The restaurant is always packed in good weather, especially on the weekends, but the winery has no plans to expand. They don't want to compromise their product by focusing too much on growth.
While Colorado may not be not known for wine-making, Cleveland believes that will change. The dry climate makes for ideal conditions and the plentiful sun on the Western Slope enriches the fruity flavors of the grapes.
Click on the following links to learn more about the winery, Evergreen, and other Colorado travel ideas.
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